Category: RESOURCES

  • Telling the story of my Wardrobe

    Telling the story of my Wardrobe

    Wendy Ward keeps track of her clothing, how often she wears it, literally marking the Wears, and trying to work out why so many of us, keep buying more.

    https://www.instagram.com/p/DGdW4uCtgyA/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

    Every stitch represents one time this garment has been worn. (Wendy Ward, Author provided (no reuse))

    Checkmarks showing each wear, #are made with single, perfect, and colourful stitches directly on her clothes, which become part of both her personal craft, and her doctoral research. Her father loved his soft, worn, comfortable clothes, like this gorgeous 80% wool cardigan slowly becoming meshed with marks showing how often she wears this inherited piece. Wendy speaks of how her father’s repairs of his favourite pieces was part of her childhood. She has been a clothes designer, a teacher of making and repairing clothes, and developed easy-to-use patterns and books on sewing, dressmaking, and design. #

    After a Masters in During Covid, UK-based fashion designer and PhD student Wendy Ward

    “It’s so easy with fashion to be tempted by the constant churn of new styles and colours and to lose sight of what you’re actually likely to enjoy wearing regularly,” Wendy says, adding a stitch to her clothes every time she wears them.

    She’s spending more time with her clothes and looking at them in far more detail, which not only allows reflection on how they make her feel but is a great way to spot would-be stains or damage to fix before they become a bigger issue.

    “When I take time to sew a stitch into a garment, I’m looking at … the things you don’t really pay attention to when wearing your clothes,” Ward says. Regularly checking in with, inspecting, and auditing clothing builds a relationship of sorts, so clothing stops being a fleeting addition to wardrobes and becomes something worth investing in and caring for.

    From article in I News about Caring for Clothes

     As part of her PhD research, Ms Ward has been experimenting with ways to encourage people to fall in love with the clothes they already own, and examining whether this could lead to more sustainable consumption. The clothes people already own were, after all, the most sustainable ones, she says.

    Wendy Ward, fashion designer and researcher. (Supplied: Wendy Ward on ABC.au)

    As part of her PhD research, Sheffield-based designer, maker and eco activist Ms Ward has been experimenting with ways to encourage people to fall in love with the clothes they already own, and examining whether this could lead to more sustainable consumption.

    A denim jacket with 205 red tally marks, divided into sections for worn, donated to charity and removed for repair.
    Wendy Ward shared this visual wardrobe audit on social media. (Instagram: thatwendyward)

    Through creative writing, drawing and photography workshops, she encourages people to “reconnect with clothes, and the stories … and the meanings that are held in them.
    I believe in small, individual acts of resistance: celebrating that loved garment through creative writing or a portrait; mending that hole or tear; redyeing that faded t-shirt; being seen in the same outfit multiple times; or engaging in ‘guerilla EPR’ by returning your end-of-life garments to the brands that made them.”

    “I get really frustrated by an unwillingness to think differently: from designers, brands and manufacturers, all the way through to consumers and those dealing with our textile waste. Fashion is supposed to be a space of innovation, creativity and future-thinking, but it seems to have lost that ability. The preferred option always seems to be: ‘business as usual’ (aka overproduction and overconsumption) but with a few tweaks such as a factory powered by solar panels, or a fabric made from recycled bottles. The difficult ‘messy’ work of production and end-of-life disposal is always kept ‘out of sight, out of mind’ for consumers in the Global North, resulting in consumers who have little awareness of what it takes to make their clothes and dispose of them once they’ve finished with them.”

    Most recently I’ve personally felt extremely conflicted about end-of-life clothing. So much so that I’m now keeping hold of all of mine and my partner’s clothing that fall into this category as I don’t believe a satisfactory system currently exists in the UK to deal with it. I don’t want my textile waste to be incinerated in a so-called energy recovery facility contributing to local air pollution or to be exported to the Global South contributing to waste colonialism .

    “Fashion is a lot about storytelling — and brands are often very keen to do that storytelling for us, but if we are more connected to our clothes, we can use our clothes to do our own storytelling,” she says.

    Reconnecting with your clothes

    Wendy has done an audit to discover how many garments she owns and is now tracking how often she wears them.

    Ms Ward says knowing what garments she wears a lot has made her love them even more.

    Resources:

    https://linktr.ee/thatwendyward

    https://concernedresearchers.org/blog/18-wendy-ward-mom-apr-2025-xdmxm-caghl-xdxh2

    https://www.abc.net.au/news/2024-03-22/fast-fashion-wardrobe-freeze-to-reduce-clothing-waste/103585450

  • The story of Never Enough

    The story of Never Enough

    Zhong Lin's January shoot for Vogue Taiwan %22Limitless Consumption%22 = model in oily pile of used clothing

    “Overconsumption is the most deadly ecological killer in contemporary times, and it is closely related to any problem of environmental pollution… let us calm down and present an ecological fable with the cover image story.”

    Vogue Taiwan ran this beautiful but hard-hitting photo-shoot in their January 2025 edition  as an “elegy to overconsumption”

    Fashion as art drives a global business model that most visibly displays the excesses, and technologies, of our age. There is almost no textile, no shape, no embellishment too wild, too beautiful, for a designer and maker somewhere to fashion. At the same time, all humans require some kind of cover, from those in tropical forests requiring only the most simple covering for modesty and protection from thorns, to NASA astronauts and Olympic athletes requiring incredibly technical garments to perform their work. Since ancient times humans wore furs, leather, and simple woven fabrics made with wool and plant fibres for protection and later as adornment,

    ##to our cotton t-shirts, hemp jeans, silk and linen clothes

    But with increasing use of petroleum-based plastics to manufacture cheap textiles – globally, about 60% of fabric used for clothing is synthetic (and not biodegradable), manufacturers churn out increasing quantities of cheap clothing. The low cost encourages faster consumption and discarding, and in wealthy countries, textile and apparel (T&A) waste has become an enormous burden.

    What we wear is a fundamental aspect of our  humanity – we cover our fragile nakedness, express ourselves, comply with societal norms, and strive for beauty…

    Vogue Taiwan photograph of young asian woman carrying unwieldy black object on her back, beautifully photographed, with the tag %22Never Enough%22

    Where is our obsession with Fashion taking us all?

    The need for something new and exciting to wear, for an event, an interview, or just to feel good about ourselves, has become a global obsession. And the post-event residue of once-worn cheaply made fast fashion, is literally burying us in polyesters.

    Ports in Ghana, Burkina Faso or Côte d’Ivoire in Africa, and Chile, South America, have become dumping grounds for Europe’s unwanted recycled and donated clothes. This growing waste stream is pouring into informal second-hand clothes markets like Kantamanto, where 15 million imported items per week arrive by ship. Locals attempt to sort and monetise the waste by remaking and selling on any useable items, creating jobs for designers, makers, sellers, carriers, market staff. This is in direct competition to local textile and clothing manufacturers, threatening jobs in more formal businesses.

    But 40 percent of the imported textiles and apparel (T&A)  is unusable, dumped in landfill near the port spilling onto the beaches. These cairns of imported rubbish catch fire easily, and leach poisons, a dystopian future of fashion suggested by the Vogue Photographer Zhong Lin.

    As Vogue Taiwan Editor-in-Chief Sun Yi said: “Overconsumption itself, and its impact on the earth, has caused environmental degradation, resource depletion, damage to ecosystems, and accelerated climate change. This idea, through the perspective of our long-term photography partner Zhong Ling, has given rise to a new prophecy about future habitats:

    in a world where living land is limited due to rising sea levels, we become seasonal nomads, constantly migrating due to unpredictable weather. The plants and animals we once relied on for survival have disappeared, and when the soil cannot support life, we have to cultivate green plants on our bodies. We begin to carry our homes on our backs like snails.”

    Ghana problem – tackling T&A waste 

    Credits for original article (here)

    APAC Editorial Director: Leslie Sun
    Photographer: Zhong Lin
    Model: Zoe Fang
    Stylist and Managing Fashion Editor: Chen Yu
    Features Director and Text: Nicole Lee
    Makeup: Sting Hsieh
    Hair: Miley Shen
    Gaffer: Yuanling Wang
    Set Design: Setsation Studio
    Producer: Nelly Yang
    Zoe Fang身著黑色仿舊高跟襪靴 BALENCIAGA