Category: RESOURCES

  • #TakeItBack – the story of “guerilla EPR”

    #TakeItBack – the story of “guerilla EPR”

    Wendy Ward has a new story for worn-out and un-useable waste textiles, that we return them carefully with a letter to the manufacturer, suggesting THEY think about the lack of an end-of-life process.

    Once upon a time, an old polycotton sheet reached its end of life. Not absorbent enough to become a rag, unwanted at thrift shops where there’s no demand, no organisation could reuse the materials, it might be repaired a while but most people don’t know how, and shoved in a bin in the UK would mean either incineration or a long journey to be dumped in the Global South.

    Used clothes discarded in the Atacama desert, Chile. Photograph: The Guardian- Martin Bernetti/AFP/Getty Images

    Currently, environmental action charity Wrap claim about 650K tonnes of used textiles are processed out of recycling in the UK, of which 421K tonnes are exported as “waste” colonialism for processing in the global South. While clothing can often be recycled, there is no infrastructure to recycle or repurpose worn bedding and other post-consumer mixed fibre home textile waste.

    Enter Wendy Ward, designer, maker, author, and academic, who is holding the creators of the problem accountable. She sent her old sheet back to the retailer with a kindly worded letter asking them to #TakeitBack, and to inform her of what they are doing to address the problem of old unwanted textiles they had produced.

    Wendy Ward from a Guardian Newspaper Article – Photograph: Christopher Thomond/The Guardian

    Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) policies could force manufacturers to take responsibility for the lifecycle of their products, from better design to end-of-use recycling, with fees to support recycling infrastructure, sorting and cleaner incineration. Policies have been implemented in Europe, and could be in the UK. Pressuring responsible organisations to support suitable policy and pay into recycling infrastructure is key, as the government has not yet acted.

    The Sheet that went Back – guerilla EPR. Photo : Instagram @thatWendyWard

    Sainbury’s received their 10 year old mixed-source polycotton sheet back from Wendy, with a letter advising them that despite her academic research, she could find no sustainable options like repair, composting, or repurposing, only normal recycling which could see it shipped overseas to be dumped or incinerated.

    Her post about her letter went viral, hopefully Sainsbury’s will look into it and take some actions. Wendy reports so far, that she received only a quick customer service response which does not answer the problem.

    She recommends more of us get involved, and pressurise these companies to do better.

    Take Action

    If you would like to participate in the action, and have a mixed-fibre item at end of life, tell them to #TakeItBack.

    Click here to access Wendy Ward's Linktr.ee, the first options is a #TakeItBack template to write to your manufacturer
    Click for template!!!

    Launder the items, pack them carefully, and add a polite explanatory letter explaining the recycling issue. Ask what you are supposed to now do with the item, making the problem of unrecyclable consumer textiles visible to those accountable and responsible for its production. Send it recorded mail to manufacturers or retailer.

    More details and a template letter here, for people wanting to do the same, many of her Instagram followers are taking this same action. Let Wendy know if you hear anything helpful back!

    Resources:

    Detailed references for Wendy Ward https://linktr.ee/thatwendyward

    @redesign_collective  in Instagram coined the helpful term “guerilla EPR” 🙌

    More about Wendy Ward’s research here: https://concernedresearchers.org/blog/18-wendy-ward-mom-apr-2025-xdmxm-caghl-xdxh2

    We need Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) policy for textiles (2024) Ellen MacArthur Foundation. Available at: https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/epr-policy-for-textiles (Accessed: 1 June 2025).

    Implementation of EPR in Europe : Saint, M. (2025) ‘Fashion brands face growing EU pressure to cut textiles waste’, Financial Times, 22 May. Available at: https://www.ft.com/content/02d6d242-5a1a-4628-a861-a5e880b52575 (Accessed: 1 June 2025).

  • The story of Never Enough

    The story of Never Enough

    Zhong Lin's January shoot for Vogue Taiwan %22Limitless Consumption%22 = model in oily pile of used clothing
    Vogue cover shoot – Taiwan, January 2025. Photograph : Zhong Lin, Model: Zoe Fang

    VOGUE 1月號封面,一首過度消費的輓歌

    過度消費是當代最致命的生態殺手,它與環境污染的任何一個問題都息息相關。在一年的初始,讓我們靜下心來,用封面影像故事呈現一個生態寓言。

    By Nicole LeeChen Yu2025年1月2日

    Bible of fashion Vogue were telling a different story in January to their usual promotion of consumption of clothing. With lyrical text, “an Ode” to our over-consumption and excess waste was illustrated by a solitary model overladen with clothes and oil, in a devastated landscape.

    Fashion as Art drives a global business model encouraging the excesses and technologies of our Age. There is no textile, structure, or embellishment too wild, too beautiful, for a designer to suggest.

    Humans all require a cover, from those in tropical forests requiring only the most simple covering for modesty and protection from thorns, to NASA astronauts and Olympic athletes requiring incredibly technical garments to work.

    Zoe Fang is wearing a grey wrinkled jacket, ACNE STUDIOS a dark brown lapel jacket, PRADA black trousers, black thick-soled mid-length boots, BALENCIAGA a rendered distressed top, dark blue denim sleeves, brown denim sleeves all by MARRKNULL
    Zoe Fang in Acne Studios, Prada, Balenciaga & Marrknull. Photograph : Zhong Lin for Vogue Taiwan 2025
    Vogue cover shoot – Taiwan, January 2025. Photograph : Zhong Lin, Model: Zoe Fang

    Increasing use is made of petroleum-based plastics to manufacture cheap textiles – globally, about 60% of fabric used for clothing is synthetic, not biodegradable like natural fibres. Our mass consumption of these clothes creates prodigious textile and apparel (T&A) waste, an enormous burden on the Planet.

    Vogue Taiwan photograph of young asian woman carrying unwieldy black object on her back with the tag %22Never Enough%22
    Carrying our homes on our back in the future – Photograph : Zhong Lin in Balenciaga for Vogue Taiwan 2025

    Where is our obsession with Fashion taking us all?

    The need for something new and exciting to wear, for an event, an interview, or just to feel good about ourselves, is a global obsession linked to Social Media, and residue from that fast fashion is literally burying us in polyesters.

    Ports in Ghana, Burkina Faso or Côte d’Ivoire in Africa, and Chile, South America, are dumping grounds for Europe’s unwanted recycled and donated clothes. This growing waste stream fills informal markets like Kantamanto, Accra, where 15 million imported garments arrive by ship per week. While sorting and selling, and upcycling, creates employment for designers, makers, sellers, carriers and market staff, about 40 percent of the imports are unusable and dumped to landfill at the port.

    Small model in bright red winged cape and dress with stillt like shoes, posing over dangerous looking small fast running stony stream
    Model Zoe Fang spinning wings cape /dress by LÙCHEN. Photograph : Zhong Lin for Vogue Taiwan 2025

    Kantamanto market burned almost to the ground at Christmas. The dystopian future of burned landscapes was suggested by the Vogue Photographer Zhong Lin.

    Vogue cover shoot – Taiwan, January 2025. Photograph : Zhong Lin, Model: Zoe Fang

    Take Action Now : #NoNewClothes

    Imagine a fashion future where the planet is respected and garment workers are paid living wages. Join the #NoNewClothes challenge, commit to not buying any new clothes for at least 90 days, only second hand – or nothing at all.

    #NoNewClothes Challenge is 90 days to help address overconsumption and change the fashion industry.

    In 1972, a group of thinkers wrote a book called The Limits to Growth, which simulated the future scenarios that humanity might face, but the vision was not pretty. They predicted that the world was on a trajectory that exceeded the Earth's carrying capacity, and that such a trajectory came from overconsumption. If we continue to act in the current way - overconsumption of resources - it will lead to global environmental collapse by the end of the 21st century. But 50 years later, we are still in the quagmire, and even because of the epidemic and the rapid development of online shopping, overconsumption is more serious than scholars imagined half a century ago.
    Model: Zoe Fang Vogue cover shoot Photograph : Zhong Lin for Vogue Taiwan 2025

    References

    Ahiable, K. and Triki, C. (2021) Tackling Ghana’s Textile-Waste Challenge, Tony Blair institute for Global Change. Available at: https://institute.global/insights/climate-and-energy/tackling-ghanas-textile-waste-challenge (Accessed: 1 June 2025).

    Lee N. (2025) VOGUE 1月號封面,一首過度消費的輓歌, Vogue Taiwan. Available at: https://www.vogue.com.tw/article/2025-january-cover (Accessed: 1 June 2025).

    Credits for above original January 2205 Cover article in Vogue
    • APAC Editorial Director: Leslie Sun
    • Photographer: Zhong Lin
    • Model: Zoe Fang
    • Stylist and Managing Fashion Editor: Chen Yu
    • Features Director and Text: Nicole Lee
    • Makeup: Sting Hsieh
    • Hair: Miley Shen
    • Gaffer: Yuanling Wang
    • Set Design: Setsation Studio
    • Producer: Nelly Yang
    • Zoe Fang身著黑色仿舊高跟襪靴 BALENCIAGA