Tag: Collapse

  • The story of Never Enough

    The story of Never Enough

    Zhong Lin's January shoot for Vogue Taiwan %22Limitless Consumption%22 = model in oily pile of used clothing
    Vogue cover shoot – Taiwan, January 2025. Photograph : Zhong Lin, Model: Zoe Fang

    VOGUE 1月號封面,一首過度消費的輓歌

    過度消費是當代最致命的生態殺手,它與環境污染的任何一個問題都息息相關。在一年的初始,讓我們靜下心來,用封面影像故事呈現一個生態寓言。

    By Nicole LeeChen Yu2025年1月2日

    Bible of fashion Vogue were telling a different story in January to their usual promotion of consumption of clothing. With lyrical text, “an Ode” to our over-consumption and excess waste was illustrated by a solitary model overladen with clothes and oil, in a devastated landscape.

    Fashion as Art drives a global business model encouraging the excesses and technologies of our Age. There is no textile, structure, or embellishment too wild, too beautiful, for a designer to suggest.

    Humans all require a cover, from those in tropical forests requiring only the most simple covering for modesty and protection from thorns, to NASA astronauts and Olympic athletes requiring incredibly technical garments to work.

    Zoe Fang is wearing a grey wrinkled jacket, ACNE STUDIOS a dark brown lapel jacket, PRADA black trousers, black thick-soled mid-length boots, BALENCIAGA a rendered distressed top, dark blue denim sleeves, brown denim sleeves all by MARRKNULL
    Zoe Fang in Acne Studios, Prada, Balenciaga & Marrknull. Photograph : Zhong Lin for Vogue Taiwan 2025
    Vogue cover shoot – Taiwan, January 2025. Photograph : Zhong Lin, Model: Zoe Fang

    Increasing use is made of petroleum-based plastics to manufacture cheap textiles – globally, about 60% of fabric used for clothing is synthetic, not biodegradable like natural fibres. Our mass consumption of these clothes creates prodigious textile and apparel (T&A) waste, an enormous burden on the Planet.

    Vogue Taiwan photograph of young asian woman carrying unwieldy black object on her back with the tag %22Never Enough%22
    Carrying our homes on our back in the future – Photograph : Zhong Lin in Balenciaga for Vogue Taiwan 2025

    Where is our obsession with Fashion taking us all?

    The need for something new and exciting to wear, for an event, an interview, or just to feel good about ourselves, is a global obsession linked to Social Media, and residue from that fast fashion is literally burying us in polyesters.

    Ports in Ghana, Burkina Faso or Côte d’Ivoire in Africa, and Chile, South America, are dumping grounds for Europe’s unwanted recycled and donated clothes. This growing waste stream fills informal markets like Kantamanto, Accra, where 15 million imported garments arrive by ship per week. While sorting and selling, and upcycling, creates employment for designers, makers, sellers, carriers and market staff, about 40 percent of the imports are unusable and dumped to landfill at the port.

    Small model in bright red winged cape and dress with stillt like shoes, posing over dangerous looking small fast running stony stream
    Model Zoe Fang spinning wings cape /dress by LÙCHEN. Photograph : Zhong Lin for Vogue Taiwan 2025

    Kantamanto market burned almost to the ground at Christmas. The dystopian future of burned landscapes was suggested by the Vogue Photographer Zhong Lin.

    Vogue cover shoot – Taiwan, January 2025. Photograph : Zhong Lin, Model: Zoe Fang

    Take Action Now : #NoNewClothes

    Imagine a fashion future where the planet is respected and garment workers are paid living wages. Join the #NoNewClothes challenge, commit to not buying any new clothes for at least 90 days, only second hand – or nothing at all.

    #NoNewClothes Challenge is 90 days to help address overconsumption and change the fashion industry.

    In 1972, a group of thinkers wrote a book called The Limits to Growth, which simulated the future scenarios that humanity might face, but the vision was not pretty. They predicted that the world was on a trajectory that exceeded the Earth's carrying capacity, and that such a trajectory came from overconsumption. If we continue to act in the current way - overconsumption of resources - it will lead to global environmental collapse by the end of the 21st century. But 50 years later, we are still in the quagmire, and even because of the epidemic and the rapid development of online shopping, overconsumption is more serious than scholars imagined half a century ago.
    Model: Zoe Fang Vogue cover shoot Photograph : Zhong Lin for Vogue Taiwan 2025

    References

    Ahiable, K. and Triki, C. (2021) Tackling Ghana’s Textile-Waste Challenge, Tony Blair institute for Global Change. Available at: https://institute.global/insights/climate-and-energy/tackling-ghanas-textile-waste-challenge (Accessed: 1 June 2025).

    Lee N. (2025) VOGUE 1月號封面,一首過度消費的輓歌, Vogue Taiwan. Available at: https://www.vogue.com.tw/article/2025-january-cover (Accessed: 1 June 2025).

    Credits for above original January 2205 Cover article in Vogue
    • APAC Editorial Director: Leslie Sun
    • Photographer: Zhong Lin
    • Model: Zoe Fang
    • Stylist and Managing Fashion Editor: Chen Yu
    • Features Director and Text: Nicole Lee
    • Makeup: Sting Hsieh
    • Hair: Miley Shen
    • Gaffer: Yuanling Wang
    • Set Design: Setsation Studio
    • Producer: Nelly Yang
    • Zoe Fang身著黑色仿舊高跟襪靴 BALENCIAGA