Tag: recycling

  • Tatreez – the Embroiderer’s story

    Tatreez – the Embroiderer’s story

    Traditional Wedding outfit. Wafaa Abu Gulmee, Palestine, 2020, shared on Unesco.org

    A young girl sits on the stone steps of her home, watching her mother, and other female family members, create the traditional Palestinian handcraft of “tatreez” (hand embroidery). They sit with balls of bright embroidery thread in baskets, stitching a design on local cotton or linen using cross stitch techniques, or remaking a heritage garment, painstakingly small stitches in bright colours, across the bodices, in panels for sleeves and on the hems of their skirts. The visible record of their love for their land and storytelling of their shared history, appears in the motifs, olive trees, buildings and local fauna and flora.

    Jamileh and Nazmieh Salim are two of six sisters, embroider for Inaash in Mar Elias refugee camp in Lebanon

    The traditional Palestinian “thobe “(long loose fitting dress) was worn traditionally in villages near Jerusalem and in Ramallah, and Bethlehem before the colonisation and now destruction of Palestine. Historically, the combination of motifs, colours, and style of embroidery (tatreez) on a woman’s thobe linked to a very specific village and region, a personal visual ethnography now lost with displacement.

    Capture from Unesco video celebrating Palestinian Tatreez

    Incorporating traditional motifs of Palestinian food, flora, architecture and daily life in colours that indicate both a regional identity and marital status, Tatreez has been formally recognised by Unesco on their Intangible Cultural Heritage List.

    After the 1948 Nakba many Palestinian families were uprooted, displacing the connection traditional designs made between women’s history and their home. After the Palestinian flag was banned, the colours were embroidered onto clothing. Later, Palestinian struggle against the Occupation appeared through colours and other symbolism like doves, women literally wearing resistance and activism.

    Palestinian heritage garment, patched, with embroidery, presentation at Courtauld Galleries by Rachel Dedman

    West Bank embroiderers of tatreez are still hand-stitching fine home decor items, panels for clothing, and full thobes, for celebration or wedding garments, to market on sites like Etsy and Pinterest.

    Bethlehem, a center for design and pilgrimage since ancient times, is famous for rich and distinctive use of couch stitching, “tahriri” or “taqsireh”, with heavier cord secured with gold or silver thread in intricate patterns highly valued across Palestine, and now by discerning buyers online.

    Exquisite embroidered thobe, possibly a Palestinian wedding dress, for rent on Etsy

    Nol Collective supports Palestinians creating modern Tatreez designs, to reach the global marketplace, including a local upcyling project “souk samara” working with vintage panels. The Collective helped preserve the traditional Majdalawi handweaving technique, traditional to the now demolished town of al Majdal in Gaza. Weavers were helped to safe premises recently, to preserve their craft. Funds were raised from sales of Tatreez.

    Denim jacket with up-cycled tatreez from vintage thobe – souk samara, “local Palestinian brand from Nablus, giving fraying vintage thobs a second life”.

    Action :

    Please try to confirm that original tatreez work bought online supports a Palestinian family, as you may be buying a much loved family heirloom or an item representing hours of Palestinian refugee labour. Many embroiderers now depend on these traditional skills to support their families in very difficult circumstances, benefits must go back to them.

    Additional References:

    https://ich.unesco.org/en/RL/the-art-of-embroidery-in-palestine-practices-skills-knowledge-and-rituals-01722

    https://www.unesco.org/en/fieldoffice/ramallah/palestinian-embroidery

    Book by Rachel Dedman “Stitching the Intifada: Embroidery and Resistance in Palestine” https://www.commonthreadspress.co.uk/products/stitching-the-intifada-embroidery-and-resistance-in-palestine

    Talk by Rachel Dedman on the links between Embroidery and Resistance in Palestine : https://courtauld.ac.uk/whats-on/material-power-embroidery-dress-and-resistance-in-palestine/

    FANN, B.A. (2023) The Art of Tatreez – Palestinian Embroidery, Bayt Al Fann. Available at: https://www.baytalfann.com/post/the-art-of-tatreez-palestinian-embroidery (Accessed: 1 June 2025).

    Possible sources of Tatreez for purchasing, please report back if you know other reliable sources or any issues with these.

    • https://www.hadeel.org/suppliers/sulafa-unwra-embroidery-project/
    • https://www.shoppalestine.org/pages/our-story
    • https://www.instagram.com/palestinian_tatreez/
    • https://www.instagram.com/samarasouk/


  • The complex story of textile recycling

    The complex story of textile recycling

    6000kg of clothing goes to landfill in australia every 10 minutes, according to the brilliant @brenna_quinlan
    Clothing waste

    That shiny new top for a special night out, or fresh bright cushion cover in the hotel room, or no-iron sheets in the guest room, all have one thing in common – made with polyester, they get old, and ugly, and wear out. And existing recycling has limited options for this – despite being told to put old things in the correct recycling bin, it cannot all be recycled sustainably.

    Once too worn out for its original purpose, or to be reused, repaired, refurbished, or repurposed, then basic materials should be recovered from the item. With polyesters, chemical recycling is an option (dependent on the mixture of fibres involved). The process is technically complex, and a lot of waste material escapes.

    Image courtesy of The Ocean Cleanup, working to clear the Pacific Garbage Patch

    PET (polyethylene terephthalate, one kind of polyester, used for bottles, trays, and fabric) is recycled a lot – about 50% in Europe. About 17% in 2022 of recycled PET material became new bottles, the rest plastic packaging and mixed fibre clothing or was lost during in the recycling process.

    Eunomia and Zero Waste Europe Report on Recycling of PET (Feb 2022)

    So up to 63% of PET is lost each cycle as waste, see graph above (recycled PET packaging/trays and mixed fibre polyester textiles, are not themselves recycled much). Each cycle, the 17% recycled material is reduced. There is value in recycling PET, but the current process requires virgin PET material inputs each cycle.

    Recycling of mixed fibres, like poly-cottons, is more difficult. Chemical processing to separate mixed fibres have proven successful in small batches, with pre-consumer waste like manufacturer deadstock. Chemical depolymerization requires heat, washing, and careful sorting, often making the process less “sustainable” than producing virgin cotton or even polyester.

    Scaling the process is complicated. To make up the quantity, post-consumer textiles are sourced from mixed recycling collections. These will include metallic dyes, chemical coatings like fireproofing, hidden fasteners, and unlabelled fibre content. Even minor contaminations limits scaling the chemical processing (Marusic (2024), Gusein (2025)).

    Reju – polyester made from textiles, for textiles.

    Alternatively, a mechanical reprocessing can turn some pre-consumer waste fabric, deadstock, into fibre ready for reweaving, at close to 100% re-use, the machine requires clean source material. Post-consumer waste is problematic, due to contamination.

    To move towards full circularity in textile recycling, these issues of scale must be addressed. Producing single fibre textiles, like 100% cotton, historically, made recycling easier – the complex make-up of many modern textiles makes recycling equally complex, and often outside consumer capability.

    The EU Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) policy is one solution being trialled requiring textiles to be clearly “labelled” (even at a fibre level) for source and content, enabling full recovery and recycling of materials possible. The policy requires a fee per kilogram of textile manufactured, revenue enabling better recycling systems to internalize end-of-life recovery/recycling costs inside the industry. Systemiq (Hermann et al 2025) calculate that Europe could be recycling ten times more polyester by 2030.

    PET bottles recycled into pellets, then spun into yarns, becoming wearable textiles (Image: Eurofins website)
    PET bottles recycled into pellets, then spun into yarns, becoming wearable textiles (Image: Eurofins website)

    While we wait for EPR policy enabling detailed labelling for recycling, improved chemical detection of fibres in textiles enables better separation during recycling, but are costly and not available to consumers. This lack of information about our clothing structure means we all do a lot of “wishcycling” – putting items in the wrong recycling bins. But keeping textiles out the main waste stream is critical, as piles of unrecyclable textiles grow, consumer demand for improved processes grows too.

    • Use less plastic, generally.
    • Buy less non-recyclable materials (like mixed fibre clothing, polystyrene, and bright coloured plastic homeware) planning to “wishcycle” it away (thanks Sam). It never goes away, it either gets incinerated, or goes to landfill.
    • Keep recycling carefully! Your clean uncontaminated recyclables in the specified containers at official collection points, even if currently inadequate, can still be useful to organisations developing circular material use systems and get processed, in landfill or incinerated they are lost forever.
    • In the UK, check for specific recycling options and locations here: https://www.recyclenow.com/recycling-locator
      – In Portugal, here: https://www.ondereciclar.pt/

    References

    ANDRITZ (2025) Sustainable fashion: ANDRITZ tearing line starts up at Pacific Jeans, Bangladesh, Andritz AG Newsroom. Available at: https://www.andritz.com/newsroom-en/nonwoven-and-textile/2025-05-14-pacific-jeans-group (Accessed: 29 May 2025).

    Grant, A. et al. (2022) ‘How circular is PET?’, Zero Waste Europe, 16 February. Available at: https://zerowasteeurope.eu/library/how-circular-is-pet/ (Accessed: 29 May 2025).

    Gusein, S. (2025) Does the Circular Story Still Hold Up When You Do the Math? Shivam Gusain, Substack. Available at: https://substack.com/home/post/p-163767835 (Accessed: 29 May 2025).

    Hermann, S. et al. (2025) ‘The Textile Recycling Breakthrough: Why policy must lead the scale-up of polyester recycling in Europe’, Systemiq. Available at: https://www.systemiq.earth/reports/the-textile-recycling-breakthrough/ (Accessed: 30 May 2025).

    Marusic, K. (2024) Q&A: Director of sustainability at Eastman Chemical Company talks chemical recycling – The Daily Climate, Daily Climate. Available at: https://www.dailyclimate.org/industrial-chemical-recycling-2667644755/particle-1 (Accessed: 29 May 2025).


    Plastics and the circular economy (2019) Ellen MacArthur Foundation. Available at: https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/plastics-and-the-circular-economy-deep-dive (Accessed: 29 May 2025).

    Strategy for textiles – European Commission (2022) Official European Commission – TCLF (Textiles, clothing, leather and footwear) industries. Available at: https://single-market-economy.ec.europa.eu/sectors/textiles-ecosystem/strategy-textiles_en (Accessed: 29 May 2025).

    ‘The climate impact of chemical recycling technologies’ (2020) Quantis, 30 November. Available at: https://quantis.com/reports/the-climate-impact-of-chemical-recycling-technologies/ (Accessed: 29 May 2025).

    WRAP – Household Waste Prevention Hub: Re-use – Clothing (2015) WRAP – The Waste and Resources Action Programme. Available at: https://www.wrap.ngo/resources/guide/textiles/clothing (Accessed: 2 June 2025).