Tag: waste

  • #TakeItBack – the story of “guerilla EPR”

    #TakeItBack – the story of “guerilla EPR”

    Wendy Ward has a new story for worn-out and un-useable waste textiles, that we return them carefully with a letter to the manufacturer, suggesting THEY think about the lack of an end-of-life process.

    Once upon a time, an old polycotton sheet reached its end of life. Not absorbent enough to become a rag, unwanted at thrift shops where there’s no demand, no organisation could reuse the materials, it might be repaired a while but most people don’t know how, and shoved in a bin in the UK would mean either incineration or a long journey to be dumped in the Global South.

    Used clothes discarded in the Atacama desert, Chile. Photograph: The Guardian- Martin Bernetti/AFP/Getty Images

    Currently, environmental action charity Wrap claim about 650K tonnes of used textiles are processed out of recycling in the UK, of which 421K tonnes are exported as “waste” colonialism for processing in the global South. While clothing can often be recycled, there is no infrastructure to recycle or repurpose worn bedding and other post-consumer mixed fibre home textile waste.

    Enter Wendy Ward, designer, maker, author, and academic, who is holding the creators of the problem accountable. She sent her old sheet back to the retailer with a kindly worded letter asking them to #TakeitBack, and to inform her of what they are doing to address the problem of old unwanted textiles they had produced.

    Wendy Ward from a Guardian Newspaper Article – Photograph: Christopher Thomond/The Guardian

    Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) policies could force manufacturers to take responsibility for the lifecycle of their products, from better design to end-of-use recycling, with fees to support recycling infrastructure, sorting and cleaner incineration. Policies have been implemented in Europe, and could be in the UK. Pressuring responsible organisations to support suitable policy and pay into recycling infrastructure is key, as the government has not yet acted.

    The Sheet that went Back – guerilla EPR. Photo : Instagram @thatWendyWard

    Sainbury’s received their 10 year old mixed-source polycotton sheet back from Wendy, with a letter advising them that despite her academic research, she could find no sustainable options like repair, composting, or repurposing, only normal recycling which could see it shipped overseas to be dumped or incinerated.

    Her post about her letter went viral, hopefully Sainsbury’s will look into it and take some actions. Wendy reports so far, that she received only a quick customer service response which does not answer the problem.

    She recommends more of us get involved, and pressurise these companies to do better.

    Take Action

    If you would like to participate in the action, and have a mixed-fibre item at end of life, tell them to #TakeItBack.

    Click here to access Wendy Ward's Linktr.ee, the first options is a #TakeItBack template to write to your manufacturer
    Click for template!!!

    Launder the items, pack them carefully, and add a polite explanatory letter explaining the recycling issue. Ask what you are supposed to now do with the item, making the problem of unrecyclable consumer textiles visible to those accountable and responsible for its production. Send it recorded mail to manufacturers or retailer.

    More details and a template letter here, for people wanting to do the same, many of her Instagram followers are taking this same action. Let Wendy know if you hear anything helpful back!

    Resources:

    Detailed references for Wendy Ward https://linktr.ee/thatwendyward

    @redesign_collective  in Instagram coined the helpful term “guerilla EPR” 🙌

    More about Wendy Ward’s research here: https://concernedresearchers.org/blog/18-wendy-ward-mom-apr-2025-xdmxm-caghl-xdxh2

    We need Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) policy for textiles (2024) Ellen MacArthur Foundation. Available at: https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/epr-policy-for-textiles (Accessed: 1 June 2025).

    Implementation of EPR in Europe : Saint, M. (2025) ‘Fashion brands face growing EU pressure to cut textiles waste’, Financial Times, 22 May. Available at: https://www.ft.com/content/02d6d242-5a1a-4628-a861-a5e880b52575 (Accessed: 1 June 2025).

  • The complex story of textile recycling

    The complex story of textile recycling

    6000kg of clothing goes to landfill in australia every 10 minutes, according to the brilliant @brenna_quinlan
    Clothing waste

    That shiny new top for a special night out, or fresh bright cushion cover in the hotel room, or no-iron sheets in the guest room, all have one thing in common – made with polyester, they get old, and ugly, and wear out. And existing recycling has limited options for this – despite being told to put old things in the correct recycling bin, it cannot all be recycled sustainably.

    Once too worn out for its original purpose, or to be reused, repaired, refurbished, or repurposed, then basic materials should be recovered from the item. With polyesters, chemical recycling is an option (dependent on the mixture of fibres involved). The process is technically complex, and a lot of waste material escapes.

    Image courtesy of The Ocean Cleanup, working to clear the Pacific Garbage Patch

    PET (polyethylene terephthalate, one kind of polyester, used for bottles, trays, and fabric) is recycled a lot – about 50% in Europe. About 17% in 2022 of recycled PET material became new bottles, the rest plastic packaging and mixed fibre clothing or was lost during in the recycling process.

    Eunomia and Zero Waste Europe Report on Recycling of PET (Feb 2022)

    So up to 63% of PET is lost each cycle as waste, see graph above (recycled PET packaging/trays and mixed fibre polyester textiles, are not themselves recycled much). Each cycle, the 17% recycled material is reduced. There is value in recycling PET, but the current process requires virgin PET material inputs each cycle.

    Recycling of mixed fibres, like poly-cottons, is more difficult. Chemical processing to separate mixed fibres have proven successful in small batches, with pre-consumer waste like manufacturer deadstock. Chemical depolymerization requires heat, washing, and careful sorting, often making the process less “sustainable” than producing virgin cotton or even polyester.

    Scaling the process is complicated. To make up the quantity, post-consumer textiles are sourced from mixed recycling collections. These will include metallic dyes, chemical coatings like fireproofing, hidden fasteners, and unlabelled fibre content. Even minor contaminations limits scaling the chemical processing (Marusic (2024), Gusein (2025)).

    Reju – polyester made from textiles, for textiles.

    Alternatively, a mechanical reprocessing can turn some pre-consumer waste fabric, deadstock, into fibre ready for reweaving, at close to 100% re-use, the machine requires clean source material. Post-consumer waste is problematic, due to contamination.

    To move towards full circularity in textile recycling, these issues of scale must be addressed. Producing single fibre textiles, like 100% cotton, historically, made recycling easier – the complex make-up of many modern textiles makes recycling equally complex, and often outside consumer capability.

    The EU Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) policy is one solution being trialled requiring textiles to be clearly “labelled” (even at a fibre level) for source and content, enabling full recovery and recycling of materials possible. The policy requires a fee per kilogram of textile manufactured, revenue enabling better recycling systems to internalize end-of-life recovery/recycling costs inside the industry. Systemiq (Hermann et al 2025) calculate that Europe could be recycling ten times more polyester by 2030.

    PET bottles recycled into pellets, then spun into yarns, becoming wearable textiles (Image: Eurofins website)
    PET bottles recycled into pellets, then spun into yarns, becoming wearable textiles (Image: Eurofins website)

    While we wait for EPR policy enabling detailed labelling for recycling, improved chemical detection of fibres in textiles enables better separation during recycling, but are costly and not available to consumers. This lack of information about our clothing structure means we all do a lot of “wishcycling” – putting items in the wrong recycling bins. But keeping textiles out the main waste stream is critical, as piles of unrecyclable textiles grow, consumer demand for improved processes grows too.

    • Use less plastic, generally.
    • Buy less non-recyclable materials (like mixed fibre clothing, polystyrene, and bright coloured plastic homeware) planning to “wishcycle” it away (thanks Sam). It never goes away, it either gets incinerated, or goes to landfill.
    • Keep recycling carefully! Your clean uncontaminated recyclables in the specified containers at official collection points, even if currently inadequate, can still be useful to organisations developing circular material use systems and get processed, in landfill or incinerated they are lost forever.
    • In the UK, check for specific recycling options and locations here: https://www.recyclenow.com/recycling-locator
      – In Portugal, here: https://www.ondereciclar.pt/

    References

    ANDRITZ (2025) Sustainable fashion: ANDRITZ tearing line starts up at Pacific Jeans, Bangladesh, Andritz AG Newsroom. Available at: https://www.andritz.com/newsroom-en/nonwoven-and-textile/2025-05-14-pacific-jeans-group (Accessed: 29 May 2025).

    Grant, A. et al. (2022) ‘How circular is PET?’, Zero Waste Europe, 16 February. Available at: https://zerowasteeurope.eu/library/how-circular-is-pet/ (Accessed: 29 May 2025).

    Gusein, S. (2025) Does the Circular Story Still Hold Up When You Do the Math? Shivam Gusain, Substack. Available at: https://substack.com/home/post/p-163767835 (Accessed: 29 May 2025).

    Hermann, S. et al. (2025) ‘The Textile Recycling Breakthrough: Why policy must lead the scale-up of polyester recycling in Europe’, Systemiq. Available at: https://www.systemiq.earth/reports/the-textile-recycling-breakthrough/ (Accessed: 30 May 2025).

    Marusic, K. (2024) Q&A: Director of sustainability at Eastman Chemical Company talks chemical recycling – The Daily Climate, Daily Climate. Available at: https://www.dailyclimate.org/industrial-chemical-recycling-2667644755/particle-1 (Accessed: 29 May 2025).


    Plastics and the circular economy (2019) Ellen MacArthur Foundation. Available at: https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/plastics-and-the-circular-economy-deep-dive (Accessed: 29 May 2025).

    Strategy for textiles – European Commission (2022) Official European Commission – TCLF (Textiles, clothing, leather and footwear) industries. Available at: https://single-market-economy.ec.europa.eu/sectors/textiles-ecosystem/strategy-textiles_en (Accessed: 29 May 2025).

    ‘The climate impact of chemical recycling technologies’ (2020) Quantis, 30 November. Available at: https://quantis.com/reports/the-climate-impact-of-chemical-recycling-technologies/ (Accessed: 29 May 2025).

    WRAP – Household Waste Prevention Hub: Re-use – Clothing (2015) WRAP – The Waste and Resources Action Programme. Available at: https://www.wrap.ngo/resources/guide/textiles/clothing (Accessed: 2 June 2025).